TPU for Beginners: Tips for Successful Flexible Filament Prints
TPU is the filament that bends, and the one that jams most extruders. Shore hardness, setup, and the settings that make it behave.

What Makes TPU Different
Most filaments, like PLA or PETG, are rigid. TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) is the opposite.
It bends, stretches, and springs back to shape.
That flexibility makes it great for things like phone cases, gaskets, wheels, grips, and shock-absorbing parts.
But it also makes it tricky to print. The same softness that makes TPU useful also makes it harder to control.
If you’ve ever tried printing TPU and ended up with spaghetti instead of a part, don’t worry, it’s not your printer’s fault.
It just needs the right setup, speed, and slicer settings.
Why TPU Is Worth Learning
TPU prints are durable, elastic, and resistant to oils and wear.
They survive drops, pressure, and stress that would crack other plastics.
A few examples:
- Phone grips that never snap.
- Drone landing pads that absorb shock.
- RC tires that grip like real rubber.
- Custom gaskets for projects around the house.
If you’re using an Anycubic Kobra series or Anycubic i3 Mega, you already have the hardware to handle TPU. You just need to tune it right.
Understanding TPU Grades
Not all TPU behaves the same. The key is its Shore hardness, a number that shows how soft or stiff the material is.
| Shore hardness | Flexibility | Print difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| TPU 85A | Very soft, rubber-like | Harder |
| TPU 95A | Medium, slightly firm | Easier |
| TPU 98A | Stiffer, holds shape | Simplest |
If you’re just starting out, go with TPU 95A. It bends easily but still feeds through your extruder without drama.
Hardware Setup for Anycubic Printers
1. Use Direct Drive if You Can
Direct drive extruders (like on the Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro) handle TPU best because the filament path is short and controlled.
Bowden setups (like the Vyper) can print TPU, but you’ll need slower speeds and careful tuning.
2. Check the Filament Path
Make sure the filament path from the extruder to the hotend is tight, no gaps or sharp bends.
TPU can compress and buckle if it finds room to twist.
3. Use the Right Nozzle
A standard 0.4 mm brass nozzle is fine. TPU isn’t abrasive like carbon fiber or metal-filled filaments.
Keep it clean, though, TPU picks up residue easily.
Anycubic Slicer Next: Key TPU Settings
The slicer controls everything from retraction to speed. Anycubic Slicer Next makes this process simpler, with easy toggles for flexible materials.
1. Print Speed
Start around 20–30 mm/s.
TPU doesn’t like to be rushed, slower prints mean smoother flow and fewer jams.
2. Retraction
Keep retraction very low, around 1 mm or even off for direct drive printers.
Flexible filament compresses during retraction, which can cause clogs or blobs.
3. Temperature
Most TPU prints well at 220–240°C.
Too low, and it won’t stick. Too high, and it’ll ooze.
You can fine-tune this later with a small test print or temperature tower.
4. Bed Temperature
Set your bed between 40–60°C for good adhesion.
A bit of glue stick or painter’s tape helps, especially on glass beds.
5. Flow Rate
Increase flow slightly, about 105–110%.
TPU expands a bit less than rigid filaments, so a little extra flow helps solid layers close cleanly.
Tips for a Smooth First Print
Keep it slow
Rushing TPU is the easiest way to fail.
Start with small parts. Let each layer settle before the next.
Dry the filament
TPU absorbs moisture fast. Wet filament makes bubbles and stringing.
Dry it for 4–6 hours at 45°C or store it with desiccant packs when not in use.
Use gentle cooling
Too much fan can warp TPU or make layers peel.
Set cooling around 30–50% for best bonding.
Avoid retraction-heavy models
TPU struggles with constant start–stop movements.
Stick to continuous paths and avoid detailed models with hundreds of tiny islands.
Watch the first layer
Because TPU flexes, the first layer sets the tone.
Slightly higher bed temperature and slower first layer speed (about 15 mm/s) will make it stick perfectly.
Common TPU Problems and Fixes
| Problem | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Filament jams in the extruder | Retraction too high | Lower or disable retraction |
| Stringing or blobs | Too hot or too fast | Drop the temp by 5°C or slow down |
| Gaps in walls | Flow too low | Raise flow to 105–110% |
| Weak layer adhesion | Cooling too strong | Reduce the fan to 30–50% |
| Poor bed adhesion | Bed too cold | Raise it to 50–60°C, add a glue stick |
Post-Processing TPU
You don’t need much. TPU doesn’t sand well, but you can trim stringing with small scissors or a hobby knife.
If parts are too soft, increase infill or wall thickness next time.
For a clean look, use 100% infill on small decorative prints. It gives them a smoother surface and firmer feel.
Real Examples from Anycubic Users
1. TPU Gaskets on the Anycubic Kobra
One user printed small TPU gaskets for aquarium tubing.
At 0.2 mm layer height and 230°C, they came out watertight and flexible.
2. TPU Wheels for a Robot Chassis
A Kobra 2 Max owner used TPU 95A for robot wheels, 40 mm/s print speed, 100% infill, no supports.
They handled traction beautifully.
3. TPU Grip Sleeves
Another maker printed tool grips with TPU 98A.
A quick retraction tweak in Anycubic Slicer Next solved early stringing issues completely.
When TPU Might Not Be Right
It’s strong in flexibility but weak in stiffness.
If your part needs rigidity, like a frame or mount, TPU isn’t ideal.
You’ll get better results mixing materials: use TPU for padding, PLA or PETG for structure.
Also, TPU takes time. Don’t expect speed.
If you value precision and control over pace, you’ll love it. Otherwise, it can feel slow.
Quick Checklist Before Every TPU Print
✅ Clean nozzle and extruder path
✅ Dry filament
✅ Retraction below 1 mm
✅ Print speed under 30 mm/s
✅ Bed 50°C with light glue
✅ Cooling fan 40%
✅ Patience, always
Final Thoughts
TPU isn’t difficult. It’s just different.
Once you slow down and adjust a few slicer settings, it becomes one of the most rewarding materials to print.
It teaches patience, precision, and the value of small tweaks.
And when your first flexible print pops off the bed and bends instead of breaking, you’ll see why people love it.
Anycubic printers handle TPU surprisingly well, especially with the help of Anycubic Slicer Next’s flexible filament profile.
It gives you full control without needing dozens of test runs.
So, if you’ve been curious about flexible prints, start small, maybe a phone case or keychain.
Dial in your settings.
And before you know it, you’ll be printing parts that stretch, twist, and snap back just right.
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